It was when they pulled out the machetes that I started to worry. I'd seen men with machetes in Africa before, but they were rusty, practical tools used for clearing away brush by the side of the highway. These were long, shiny and housed in decorative sheaths, pulled out ostensibly so the men could sit down more comfortably, but done with a clear, understated flair. They were more like sultan swords than jungle tools. The kicking in my six-month pregnant belly had gone eerily silent since we entered the vigilante court at Alaba. 
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